Socialization: Cornerstone to Success

by ron on February 1, 2012

Socializing puppies with the world beyond their home is crucial for proper development.

One of the cornerstones to having a well-behaved, well-trained dog is proper socialization as a puppy.  Next to genetics, socialization is the single greatest influence on determining the future mental health and stability of your dog. Even in a pup with a solid genetic heritage, lack of socialization can create a dog that is uncertain in new surroundings; in a dog with a weak genetic heritage, lack of socialization can greatly compound any genetic shyness, fearfulness, and weak nerves, creating a nightmare of a dog who can become a liability.

By the time a puppy is 16 weeks old (4 months), that crucial window for socialization with the world at large is already closing. This is the age by which a young puppy learns what is safe and normal, and what is suspicious and to be avoided. Thus, it is very important that puppies receive as many safe, positive experiences with the world they will be living in by this point in time.

“But wait! The vet says to wait until the dog has had all its shots!” From a medical standpoint, this is sound advice: protect your dog from encountering diseases like distemper and parvovirus before he has immunity to these diseases. But from a social and mental health standpoint, sequestering a puppy at home until five or six months of age is completely devastating. Thankfully, you can still socialize your puppy carefully without putting him at high risk for disease.

First, avoid disease “hot spots” like dog parks, pet stores, the floor at the vet’s office, and any areas where high numbers of dogs of unknown health histories have urinated or defecated (i.e. communal potty areas). Second, focus on creating safe and positive experiences with a variety of people. You want your puppy to be confident in new environments with new sounds and new people. Invite trusted family, friends, and neighbors to visit your puppy in your home. As he gets a little older, take him outside and carefully expose him to different surfaces: carpet, concrete, wood, slick tile, shiny floors, metal, grass, gravel, etc. Teach him to ride in the car or in his crate, and take him through drive-thru windows, to the post office, to a coffee shop, or to Home Depot. Sit outside a coffee shop or grocery store with your puppy, letting him watch all the different people as they come and go. Always bring lots of treats to reward and reinforce good behavior, or to redirect unwanted puppy barking or biting. The more positive experiences the young puppy has, the more well-adjusted he will be later on, and the more capable he will be of handling stress.

Family outing to the park with a well-trained German Shepherd Dog

A well-socialized dog is more likely to be included in family activities.

Socialization should never completely stop. Even with our young family protection dog prospects and adult executive protection dogs, we will continue to bring them out and about with us to socialize them with the world outside our homes. It is important to continually expose dogs to the normal goings-on outside the house. Continuing to periodically socialize your adult dog will also help your dog become more involved in your life and your family, and will help him feel more included in his ‘pack’.

Happy socializing,
CK

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German Shepherd Puppy
Don’t let that cute face fool you! I also like to bark, nip, and chew on anything in my reach!

Now that your home is puppy-proofed and ready for your puppy, let’s talk about puppy behavior. Puppies may be cute, cuddly, and furry, but they also engage in natural behaviors that many pet owners find annoying, such as biting, barking, and chewing. To help your pup become a well-trained German Shepherd Dog, you can modify any unwanted behavior by following a few simple principles:  manage the situation/environment, redirect and refocus the behavior, and reward the correct behavior.

Biting
It is natural for puppies to nip and mouth their siblings and other members of their pack. But those little needle-sharp teeth hurt sensitive human skin, causing a significant amount of discomfort. Manage the environment by identifying “triggers” that get the dog worked up to the point he bites or mouths, and then use management tools (like a collar and lead) to help restrict the unwanted behavior (such as jumping up to nip at the hands–stepping on the lead prevents the jumping up, which then helps curtail the biting at the hands.). Then, redirect and refocus the behavior, directing the puppy’s attention to a toy (or to food/treats).   Encourage him to bite and play tug with the toy rather than your arm or hand, and then reward him with calm praise while he grabs the toy. When the pup does make contact with skin,  teach him bite inhibition to help him learn to control his bite. One of the easiest ways to do this is to “yelp” like another puppy or dog would, and cease playing. Alternatively, redirect the pup’s attention to a toy, and reinforce the behavior of grabbing a toy instead of your hands. Whenever the pup gets nippy, redirect immediately to a toy.

 Barking
All dogs bark in some degree or another. While we do not recommend completely discouraging barking–particularly for a trained German Shepherd watchdog or protection dog–you do not want to allow your puppy to get into the habit of nuisance barking or firing off at other dogs. In each case, identify the behavior you want to see, then follow the principles above. Manage the environment: if your puppy is barking at other dogs, remove him from the situation or move him farther away where he is not triggered by the stimulus of the other dog. Redirect the behavior by distracting him with a toy or by encouraging him to refocus on you, and reward him with treats or play for being quiet. Later on, you can teach him to “bark” on command and then to stop barking on command.

Chewing
Puppies have a biological need to chew, particularly when they enter the teething stage at about 4 months of age. Chew toy training is very important, as it teaches your puppy what to chew and what not to chew. After puppy-proofing your house and removing items from the puppy’s reach, provide appropriate chew toys (NOT squeaky toys or stuffed animals–these are not actual chew toys) for your puppy to chew on under your supervision (to ensure that he continues to use the chew toy, not the table leg). Appropriate chew toys are heavy duty rubber items like Kongs, which can also be stuffed with treats to make it more entertaining for the puppy. Raw beef marrow or knuckle bones also make excellent chews for puppies as they teethe. Use the same principles listed above: manage the environment (by removing items that should not be chewed), redirect and refocus the pup if he chooses to chew something inappropriate, and reward the correct behavior with praise, petting, and treats.

With consistent redirection toward and repetition of the desired behaviors, you will soon have a puppy that is well on his way to being a well-trained dog.

Happy training,
CK

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