Socializing puppies with the world beyond their home is crucial for proper development.

One of the cornerstones to having a well-behaved, well-trained dog is proper socialization as a puppy.  Next to genetics, socialization is the single greatest influence on determining the future mental health and stability of your dog. Even in a pup with a solid genetic heritage, lack of socialization can create a dog that is uncertain in new surroundings; in a dog with a weak genetic heritage, lack of socialization can greatly compound any genetic shyness, fearfulness, and weak nerves, creating a nightmare of a dog who can become a liability.

By the time a puppy is 16 weeks old (4 months), that crucial window for socialization with the world at large is already closing. This is the age by which a young puppy learns what is safe and normal, and what is suspicious and to be avoided. Thus, it is very important that puppies receive as many safe, positive experiences with the world they will be living in by this point in time.

“But wait! The vet says to wait until the dog has had all its shots!” From a medical standpoint, this is sound advice: protect your dog from encountering diseases like distemper and parvovirus before he has immunity to these diseases. But from a social and mental health standpoint, sequestering a puppy at home until five or six months of age is completely devastating. Thankfully, you can still socialize your puppy carefully without putting him at high risk for disease.

First, avoid disease “hot spots” like dog parks, pet stores, the floor at the vet’s office, and any areas where high numbers of dogs of unknown health histories have urinated or defecated (i.e. communal potty areas). Second, focus on creating safe and positive experiences with a variety of people. You want your puppy to be confident in new environments with new sounds and new people. Invite trusted family, friends, and neighbors to visit your puppy in your home. As he gets a little older, take him outside and carefully expose him to different surfaces: carpet, concrete, wood, slick tile, shiny floors, metal, grass, gravel, etc. Teach him to ride in the car or in his crate, and take him through drive-thru windows, to the post office, to a coffee shop, or to Home Depot. Sit outside a coffee shop or grocery store with your puppy, letting him watch all the different people as they come and go. Always bring lots of treats to reward and reinforce good behavior, or to redirect unwanted puppy barking or biting. The more positive experiences the young puppy has, the more well-adjusted he will be later on, and the more capable he will be of handling stress.

A well-socialized dog is more likely to be included in family activities.

Socialization should never completely stop. Even with our young family protection dog prospects and adult executive protection dogs, we will continue to bring them out and about with us to socialize them with the world outside our homes. It is important to continually expose dogs to the normal goings-on outside the house. Continuing to periodically socialize your adult dog will also help your dog become more involved in your life and your family, and will help him feel more included in his ‘pack’.

Happy socializing,
CK

Biting
It is natural for puppies to nip and mouth their siblings and other members of their pack. But those little needle-sharp teeth hurt sensitive human skin, causing a significant amount of discomfort. Manage the environment by identifying “triggers” that get the dog worked up to the point he bites or mouths, and then use management tools (like a collar and lead) to help restrict the unwanted behavior (such as jumping up to nip at the hands–stepping on the lead prevents the jumping up, which then helps curtail the biting at the hands.). Then, redirect and refocus the behavior, directing the puppy’s attention to a toy (or to food/treats).   Encourage him to bite and play tug with the toy rather than your arm or hand, and then reward him with calm praise while he grabs the toy. When the pup does make contact with skin,  teach him bite inhibition to help him learn to control his bite. One of the easiest ways to do this is to “yelp” like another puppy or dog would, and cease playing. Alternatively, redirect the pup’s attention to a toy, and reinforce the behavior of grabbing a toy instead of your hands. Whenever the pup gets nippy, redirect immediately to a toy.

 Barking
All dogs bark in some degree or another. While we do not recommend completely discouraging barking–particularly for a trained German Shepherd watchdog or protection dog–you do not want to allow your puppy to get into the habit of nuisance barking or firing off at other dogs. In each case, identify the behavior you want to see, then follow the principles above. Manage the environment: if your puppy is barking at other dogs, remove him from the situation or move him farther away where he is not triggered by the stimulus of the other dog. Redirect the behavior by distracting him with a toy or by encouraging him to refocus on you, and reward him with treats or play for being quiet. Later on, you can teach him to “bark” on command and then to stop barking on command.

Chewing
Puppies have a biological need to chew, particularly when they enter the teething stage at about 4 months of age. Chew toy training is very important, as it teaches your puppy what to chew and what not to chew. After puppy-proofing your house and removing items from the puppy’s reach, provide appropriate chew toys (NOT squeaky toys or stuffed animals–these are not actual chew toys) for your puppy to chew on under your supervision (to ensure that he continues to use the chew toy, not the table leg). Appropriate chew toys are heavy duty rubber items like Kongs, which can also be stuffed with treats to make it more entertaining for the puppy. Raw beef marrow or knuckle bones also make excellent chews for puppies as they teethe. Use the same principles listed above: manage the environment (by removing items that should not be chewed), redirect and refocus the pup if he chooses to chew something inappropriate, and reward the correct behavior with praise, petting, and treats.

With consistent redirection toward and repetition of the desired behaviors, you will soon have a puppy that is well on his way to being a well-trained dog.

Happy training,
CK

Puppies are fantastic.  Watching them take in and process the world around them, explore, and grow, is a fascinating and joyful experience.  They also require a lot of work and responsibility.  In their early years, they are very similar to human babies, except they do not have opposable thumbs.  German Shepherd puppies require very clear boundaries within the house, and a lot of attention and socialization.  Trained German Shepherds will bring your family and friends hours of joy, but that training must begin early, and your home must be set up to accommodate your future family protection dogs.

“Puppy proofing” the inside of your home, means putting away any chemicals or toxic materials that can be ingested.  Find places to put these items that are inaccessible to your new puppy.  Put away any items that you love or that are keepsakes.  There is a chance that they will get broken or chewed on during the training process.  Make sure that garbage cans are well sealed, and teach your dog from the beginning of their time in your home, that garbage is off-limits.  You can give your puppy safe chew toys but make sure he only has access to them in your presence.

Addtionally, it is important to crate-train your puppy.  Keep in mind that dogs are den animals by nature.  The crate is, for all practical purposes, your dog’s den so he will feel safe when he’s inside.  Dogs keep their dens clean and your puppy will avoid peeing in the crate at all costs.  Every time you bring the puppy out of the crate, he should immediately go outside to whatever spot you have chosen for him to do his business.  Repeating this process over the course of several weeks will fairly rapidly house break the puppy.

The German Shepherd Dog working in its original capacity as a tending dog. Pictured: Tehillah's Dangi von Hader Hof

In the early stages of  the German Shepherd breed development, the dogs served as herding dogs capable of tending large flocks of 200+ sheep. As a tending dog, they worked all day out in the open pastures with or without the human Shepherd, trotting the boundaries of the grazing area and working to keep the sheep out of bordering farmland. The dog essentially worked as a living boundary or ‘fence’ to confine the sheep to their grazing area, protecting not only the sheep from predators and trespassers but also protecting the neighboring farmland and crops from the sheep.

John Riboni's Bruno vom Midlicher Land performing a Hold and Bark during the protection phase of his SchH2.

At the very beginning of the 20^th century, there was an increase in the urbanization and industrialization of Germany. Herding became less and less popular, with fewer Shepherds (people) being able to keep and tend to these large flocks of sheep. The breed founder Max von Stephanitz saw a need for testing, preserving, and promoting the German Shepherd Dog as a utilitarian, multi-purpose breed, capable of working as a trained protection dog, police dog, and more. This test was Schutzhund, a three-phase breeding suitability test that tested the dog’s temperament, working abilities, courage, responsiveness to the handler, and versatility. In an effort to preserve the temperament and working abilities of the breed, the SV (parent club in Germany) held the first Schutzhund trial in 1901, and the rest is history. The SV further adopted the requirement that all dogs must have a Schutzhund 1 title before being bred. Schutzhund continued to gain popularity over time, and it has evolved into a highly competitive international dog sport open to all breeds displaying an aptitude for the work.

However, in April 2011, the Fédération Cynologique Internationale (FCI)—the international kennel club that oversees all other member organizations in various countries—created a universal set of rules that would replace Schutzhund and VPG titles with one universal title of IPO, or International Prüfungsordnung. As of 1 January 2012, instead of awarding SchH1 – SchH3 titles, dogs will compete under the updated international rules and earn IPO 1 – IPO3 titles. Instead of holding “Schutzhund trials”, FCI member organizations and affiliates will now hold “Working Dog Trials” or “Utility Dog Trials.” One cannot help but wonder if “Schutzhund” will now become a forgotten term!

Overall, what does this transition mean for breeders, handlers, and owners of titled dogs? If their dogs have earned a Schutzhund title prior to 1 January 2012, then the title remains as SchH1, SchH2, or SchH3. All new titles earned after this date will now be listed as IPO1, IPO2, IPO3. There are also additional titles offered under the international working dog rules:

• IPO V-O (Preliminary working title)
• FH, FH2, IPO-FH (advanced tracking titles)
• StP 1 – 3 (Random Article Search title)
• ApR 1 – 3 (Utility Dog title, consisting of obedience and protection phases)
• FPr 1 – 3 (Tracking phase only of corresponding IPO title)
• UPr 1 – 3 (Obedience phase only of corresponding IPO title)

The goal of these working trials is to not only provide the individual dog with recognition for passing a test of its working ability, but to also promote the overall health and work ethic of working dogs from generation to generation. A German Shepherd Dog that has achieved an IPO title has demonstrated that it possesses that basic genetic working ability, trainability, and temperament that helps make this breed wonderful family protection dogs as well as versatile working dogs.

Happy training,
CK

Like children, getting the perfect photograph of your pet, can sometimes be difficult.  German Shepherds, who are known for their intelligence and patience, would seemingly be easy photographic subjects.  Unfortunately, even trained German Shepherds can sometimes make impossible models.  If you want the best possible photo of your German Shepherd family member, there are a few quick tips which will make the job considerably easier.

Use natural light so that you avoid red/green eye issues.  The flash also has a tendency to startle dogs, especially puppies, and they will look frightened in all of the pictures.  Allow your dog to get settled in the space where you will be taking the picture, and choose someplace with which they are already familiar.  Surround them with toys or household items that you know they like.  If their favorite space is outside, try to avoid taking the picture against a busy backdrop.  Instead, take the photo from an angle that affords you the least visually competitive background.  If possible, bring a helper who can wave treats, toys, or talk to your dog, so that its attention stays focused in the direction you require.  Combining these tips will help you capture your family’s German Shepherd protection dog at its finest.

Chowing down on raw chicken for dinner

Last blog we shared several different variations of raw diets. In this final blog on raw feeding, we will answer two of the most commonly asked questions by those newly committed to feeding raw: how do you switch to a raw diet, and where do you get your meat?

Transitioning to Raw

John and Ron: Here at German Shepherd Watchdogs, we have successfully transitioned many, many dogs to a raw diet. We have developed a method that works well for most dogs and typically does not create digestive upset in the dog. Our method is as follows:

1. Stop feeding the kibble.
2. Feed one chicken leg quarter in the evening for two days. If the dog does well with this, then proceed to step 3. If not, continue step 2 until stools are firm.
3. Feed one chicken leg quarter twice a day (morning and evening) for four days. If the dog does well with this, then proceed to step 4. If not, continue until stools are firm.
4. Eventually transition to feeding two chicken leg quarters in the evening only. Depending on the size of your dog and its metabolic needs, you many need to alternate feeding one leg quarter one night and two leg quarters the next, or your dog may only need one each day.
5. When the dog has settled into eating raw, then you may add in any extras (veggies,  etc.).

Carissa (Schutzhund club member): If your goal is to feed a varied raw diet with other types of raw meaty bones, then you can still transition the dog in the manner that John and Ron detailed above. You can also use bone-in chicken breasts instead of leg quarters, as they also provide a good amount of meat, only a little fat, and easy-to-chew bone.  My method is as follows:

1. Get rid of the kibble.
2. Choose one protein source (chicken is usually easiest), and feed that for several days in the way John and Ron outlined above for steps 2 and 3.
3. After a week of normal stools, SLOWLY introduce a little organ meat like a chicken heart or a little chicken liver into one of the meals (either morning or evening).
4. If your dog handles a little organ meat well, then begin rotating in a little organ meat every other day or every couple days. You can also start rotating the type of raw meaty bone within a protein source (chicken leg quarters, bone-in breasts, half a chicken, etc.)
5. When adding a new protein source (beef, lamb, etc.), feed only a small amount by itself at one meal for a few days (so, a little beef in the morning, and a bone-in chicken breast in the evening, then repeat.).
6. If the dog tolerates the new protein source, then begin to rotate it into the normal feeding schedule. Repeat this with any new protein source or organ meat, and if the dog ever has loose stools, back off a little bit and move back to something that is well-tolerated. Eventually you will have a dog that can eat just about any meat at any time with no problems at all.

Where To Find Meat

1. Supermarkets
   Chicken leg quarters can be obtained very cheaply from places like Walmart for prices as low as 49 cents per pound. Stores like Safeway, Raley’s, Nugget Market, FoodMaxx, etc. regularly run sales on whole chickens and bone-in chicken breasts for 69 to 99 cents per pound. Sales on beef and other meats can also be found here. If the chicken leg quarters or other meat are ‘enhanced’ (has sodium or sodium lactate added to it), then soak the meat in water for about 20 minutes prior to feeding in order to remove some of the sodium. Too much sodium can cause the dog’s skin to dry out and become itchy.

2.  Butchers and meat markets
   You may be able to find good deals on various raw meaty bones and meats from local butchers and local meat markets. Some may even sell their meaty scraps or organ meats for pet food, so these are always a good place to check out.

3. Raw food cooperatives
   Many areas have a local email list or group that works as a raw food cooperative. They order in bulk and are thus able to reduce the price on many raw meaty bones, organ meats, meat scraps and meat blends, and more.  These cooperatives are particularly useful if you must feed a large number of dogs.  A list of Raw Dog Food Cooperatives in various states can be found here.

4.  Local Pet Food Stores/Suppliers for Commercial Raw Food
   Many boutique local pet stores and feed stores are carrying various raw food diets. They may even stock a freezer of raw meaty bones like meaty turkey necks, and can carry some hard-to-find foods like green tripe. If you decide to feed Stella and Chewy’s, Small Batch Raw Pet Food, Nature’s Variety Instinct Raw, or Honest Kitchen, you can visit their websites and find a list of stores in your area that distribute their products.

For more information on switching to a raw diet and sourcing meat, please visit the following links:

• Switching to a Raw Diet
• Finding Good Meat, Good Treats, and More

Happy Feeding,
CK

Carissa's dog Ferox v Tehillah SchH1 HCT-s eating his dinner of half a raw chicken on his plastic tablecloth (keeps the floor clean!).

]]> http://www.germanshepherdwatchdogs.com/blog/feeding-your-german-shepherd-dog-part-4/feed/ 0 http://www.germanshepherdwatchdogs.com/blog/feeding-your-german-shepherd-part-3/ http://www.germanshepherdwatchdogs.com/blog/feeding-your-german-shepherd-part-3/#comments Thu, 05 Jan 2012 05:47:58 +0000 ron http://www.germanshepherdwatchdogs.com/?p=1692

Dinner time--so many raw food choices!

In our last blog we provided a few guidelines for designing a raw diet for your German Shepherd Dog. This week, we have several different examples of raw diets fed by German Shepherd Watchdogs and by several of our local Schutzhund club members. Each diet is slightly different, demonstrating the flexibility of feeding a raw diet based on each dog’s individual needs and each person’s lifestyle and budget. Despite all the variations, in each “menu” raw meaty bones and raw meat together form the bulk of the diet.

RAW DIET “MENUS”:

“Half and Half”
From Wendy (Schutzhund club member): “Because I travel frequently, it is more difficult for me to feed all raw. So I feed half raw and half commercial food. In the mornings my dogs receive Innova dry food, 1 whole raw egg, a tablespoon of olive oil, and a scoop of Showstopper. In the evenings I feed raw chicken leg quarters, backs, or thighs. I will also feed raw beef, such as a chuck roast, when the price is good.”

Simple Raw
Ron and John: “The base of our raw diet here at German Shepherd Watchdogs consists of chicken leg quarters and dehydrated vegetables (Honest Kitchen “Preference”). We also will feed yogurt and olive oil, and occasionally Stella and Chewy’s raw food. We recommend Stella and Chewy’s raw food to clients unfamiliar with feeding raw diets to their dogs.”

More Complex Raw:
From Danny (Schutzhund club member): “I strive to take great care of my dogs.  As with humans, diet plays a key role in health and vitality.  I feed a raw meat and bones diet because it is appropriate for canines. I feed the following:

• chicken leg quarters
• ground beef
• eggs
• beef liver
• fish (canned sardines, mackerel, salmon, tuna–all packed in water)

“I also make a veggie ‘glop’ consisting of kale, broccoli, carrots, pumpkin, and sweet potato, mixed with apple cider vinegar and blended in a food processor. I supplement with olive oil, salmon oil, Ester-C (calcium ascorbate), and glucosamine/chondroitin/MSM. Supplements, veggies, and any special meats are fed in the morning meal (ground), and raw meaty bones are fed at night. I enjoy feeding my dogs and preparing their meals.  Plus, I am in control of the nutritional value of my dog’s intake and I save money!  My cost is approximately $0.80lb to feed my two German Shepherd Dogs.”

Mostly Raw Meaty Bones, Meat, and Organs
Carissa (Schutzhund club member): “I feed a modified ‘prey model’ raw diet that focuses on feeding a variety of different meat sources; variety is important in any diet, including that of our dogs and cats.  Over the course of a week or more, I rotate through the following:

• half-chickens
• bone-in chicken breasts
• meaty turkey necks
• various cuts of muscle meat (beef, pork, lamb, turkey)
• eggs
• fish (canned salmon, mackerel, sardines packed in water)
• green tripe
• liver (beef/chicken/turkey)
• heart (beef/chicken/turkey)

“I add more variety to the diet by rotating in Small Batch raw meaty bone and organ meat blends, Nature’s Variety Instinct raw food, or Stella and Chewy’s raw food. I also use these when I travel, and it makes feeding raw on the road very easy. I supplement with Natural Eggshell Membrane (joint protection), fish oil, and periodically with Platinum Performance Plus or Platinum “Bits”.

“It sounds more complicated than it really is! For example,  a sample week of dinners would be:  (1) half-chicken with organ meats, (2) half-chicken, (3) Small Batch Lamb blend, (4) turkey neck with green tripe and extra turkey meat, (5) half-chicken, (6) half-chicken with organ meat, (7) Nature’s Variety Instinct Beef blend. Supplements are given in the morning with a small breakfast of “whatever”: fish and raw eggs, green tripe, left-over raw meat or meat blends, etc. It’s basically just raw meaty bones, raw meat, and organs. Build up the variety SLOWLY over time!”

Feeding a raw diet may seem daunting at first, and it will require some investigation and some adjustment. But once you become more familiar with feeding raw, you will wonder why it seemed such a challenge at first!  Diet is the cornerstone of health, and feeding an appropriate raw diet will provide your dog with an excellent foundation.

Happy feeding,
CK

]]> http://www.germanshepherdwatchdogs.com/blog/feeding-your-german-shepherd-part-3/feed/ 0 http://www.germanshepherdwatchdogs.com/blog/feeding-your-german-shepherd-dog-part-2/ http://www.germanshepherdwatchdogs.com/blog/feeding-your-german-shepherd-dog-part-2/#comments Wed, 28 Dec 2011 17:08:40 +0000 ron http://www.germanshepherdwatchdogs.com/?p=1668

Raw meaty bones (chicken leg quarters) and organ meat (hearts, gizzards, and liver)

Feeding a raw diet can be a confusing venture at first, as there are many different styles of raw diets out there with varying degrees of complexity. Some are unnecessarily complex, while others are dangerously simple and leave out vital components. To help take some confusion out of what to feed, we will provide a few simple guidelines to keep in mind when developing a raw diet. In next week’s blog we will also provide a sampling of what we feed here at German Shepherd Watchdogs, plus a sampling of what various club members at our Schutzhund club feed.  A raw diet will offer a unique flexibility in the diet plan that is not found with commercial foods, and this flexibility will allow you to customize this diet to your dog’s particular needs.

Guidelines

1. Any raw diet MUST contain raw meaty bones in some form (whole or ground, but preferably whole to provide jaw-strengthening and teeth-cleaning benefits). Dogs cannot just have raw meat, as this provides a very unbalanced diet. They need the minerals found in bones, particularly calcium. When feeding raw meaty bones, one does not need to add a calcium supplement or bone meal supplement.

2. Raw meaty bones should be just that—raw bones wrapped in lots and lots of meat. This eliminates items like chicken wings and turkey wings, which contain entirely too much bone to be fed on their own. Better choices are chicken leg quarters, bone-in chicken breasts, half-chickens, meaty turkey necks, and so forth. Bones must always, always, always be fed RAW, as cooked bones can splinter.

3. Raw meaty bones should be an appropriate size for your dog. A dog the size of a German Shepherd should be eating larger raw meaty bones like chicken leg quarters, bone-in chicken breasts, or lamb breast or brisket, not itty-bitty chicken necks or chicken wings.

4. Small amounts of organ meats should be included in the diet. Organ meats (liver, kidney, pancreas, spleen, etc.) are packed with necessary vitamins and minerals. Some people feed vegetable matter and supplements to get these vitamins and minerals in the diet, but organ meats offer these in abundance in a more bioavailable form. Simple sources for organ meats include chicken or beef liver (incredibly nutrient dense!), beef kidney, chicken or beef heart, and chicken gizzards (heart and gizzards are more like ‘muscle meat’ in their composition, despite being “organs”).  Of all the organ meats, liver is the most nutrient dense and the most important organ to feed; fortunately, it is also easy to find in stores (particularly chicken liver). Introduce small amounts of organ meat slowly, as too much organ meat can cause loose stools.

5. Feed approximately 2-3% of the dog’s IDEAL weight per day. For example, an 85-pound dog should receive approximately 2 pounds of food per day. If a dog is overweight or underweight, feed 2-3% of what the dog’s weight should be. Watch the dog’s body condition and adjust food intake accordingly.  When a dog is at their ideal weight, ribs should be easily felt and the last two floating ribs should be visible. There should be a clearly defined waist when viewed from above and from the side. Most pets in the U.S. are overweight, so it is important to familiarize oneself with what ideal weight and body composition looks like.

Next week we will provide sample “menus” of various raw diets. In the meantime, valuable information can be found at these links below:

• ‘Prey Model’ vs. ‘BARF’ diets:
  http://rawfed.com/myths/preymodel.html
• Looking at the ‘Big Picture’:
  http://www.rawlearning.com/bigpicture.html
• Raw Fed Dogs–photos and information on feeding raw meaty bones
  http://www.rawfeddogs.net

See you next week,
CK

Here at German Shepherd Watchdogs, all our dogs—whether they are our trained Schutzhund dogs or family protection dogs—are fed a natural raw diet that includes raw meat, bones, and organs. In our experience, we feel this diet provides the best nutritional support to both our working dogs and family protection dogs. We encourage feeding a raw diet over a highly processed commercial diet for several reasons.

First, your trained German Shepherd Dog is primarily a carnivore. Their unique anatomy and physiology are designed for a diet high in meat-based protein and fat and low in carbohydrates. Unfortunately, most processed commercial foods are the exact opposite: high in carbohydrates, and much lower in protein and fat. This places an extensive burden on all of the dog’s body systems, and can incite degenerative and inflammatory issues in these systems. Some of the first and most common signs are foul-smelling breath and ear or skin problems such as ear infections, yeasty ears, skin infections, hot spots or excessive itchiness that leads to much scratching, licking, and chewing.

Second, like all animals your German Shepherd Dog thrives on fresh, real food. Dr. Francis Pottenger’s famous meat experiments demonstrated this conclusively, testing the effects of various meat-based diets over 10 years with a colony of 900 cats. Published in 1983, this study clearly showed that the cooked diets resulted in various degenerative diseases and overall poor health in the animals and their offspring, whereas the cats fed raw food thrived and continued to thrive with each successive generation.

Third, we have fed this type of diet to our trained German Shepherd Dogs for over 10 years, and have seen first-hand the difference a raw diet makes with our own dogs and the dogs we import. We have seen many dogs become transformed on raw diets. Their coats become shiny, glossy, and thick, and they do not stink or feel greasy. Their skin becomes more elastic and healthy, and skin problems and food allergies seem to disappear. Stained teeth and rancid breath are replaced by clean white teeth and fresh breath. Energy levels and muscle tone increase, and the dogs appear much more robust and healthy. Once people meet our dogs, the difference a raw diet makes becomes very apparent; soon they are asking how to feed a raw diet in order to achieve this level of health!

Next blog we will talk more about what we feed, but until then, please research the benefits of raw diets for your German Shepherd Dog.

A sampling of informative websites:

• http://www.rawlearning.com
• http://www.rawfed.com
• http://www.dogaware.com/articles/wdjhomemade2.html

 Informative books:

• Raw Dog Food: Make It Easy for You and Your Dog!, by Carina Beth MacDonald. This book is simple and streamlined, and gets into the nuts and bolts of feeding a raw diet. It also includes information on feeding vegetables, if one is so inclined. It is one of the most accessible and straightforward raw diet books out there for people new to raw feeding.

• Raw Meaty Bones, by Tom Lonsdale. This book is best for discussing WHY we should feed raw; this extensively researched book would be the book to hand to your veterinarian if they are reticent about your decision to feed a raw diet.

• Works Wonders, by Tom Lonsdale. This book (available as an e-book) has more information on how to feed a raw prey-model diet.

Happy reading,
CK

German Shepherd Watchdogs, LLC is now on Facebook!

In addition to status updates, photos, and videos, each week we will be posting a new note on Facebook titled “Dog of the Week.”  This new section will feature a different German Shepherd Dog each week, and will cover not only some of our current dogs but some of our past dogs, working police dogs, Schutzhund dogs, and some of the historically notable and influential German Shepherd Dogs found in  the pedigrees of many dogs today.

This week’s Dog of the Week is “Braux” (Quax von der Sintherner Kirchgasse). Be sure to visit our Facebook page to check out a detailed description of Braux and his genetic heritage.

Just click on the Facebook icon below to visit and ‘Like’ our page. See you online!

http://www.facebook.com/germanwatchdogs